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domingo 30|08|2015

Tres días con el mejor amante del Gran Mekong

Texto y fotos: Ana Bustabad Alonso
Hace más de tres horas que la oscuridad es completa, y aún así el río continúa completamente vivo, como si nunca fuese de noche en el mítico Mekong. Estamos al sur de Vietnam, en uno de los nueve brazos de su desembocadura, a bordo de L’Amant, un barco bautizado como la novela de Marguerite Duras. Muy cerca de donde vivió la escritora, en la Indochina francesa de mediados del siglo XX.
 
El amante. Qué nombre tan sugerente… Son las nueve de la noche y además del murmullo traqueteante del motor se escucha el sonido rítmico de las cigarras, que cantan desde la orilla. La oscuridad se rompe a ratos con luces pequeñas: rojas, azules… Algún foco más potente ilumina de cuando en cuando L’Amant.
Como nos decía esta tarde Cha, nuestra guía de Phoenix Voyages, todas ellas semejan a una enorme serpiente de fuego que cruza el Mekong. En realidad se trata de ferrys, de pequeñas chalupas, de barcazas cargadas de mercancías que atraviesan constantemente el río.
La temperatura es muy buena aquí fuera, en la terraza que rodea la cubierta. Estaremos cerca de los 30 grados, la humedad es altísima, y el único inconveniente en esta noche perfecta son unos minúsculos mosquitos de color verde, casi transparentes, que apenas se ven pero pican. Menos mal que entre las amenities de abordo no falta un fantástico repelente de insectos.
Al otro lado del cristal, cada uno de los doce camarotes del barco. Son pequeños, lujosos, de maderas tropicales y diseño colonial.
El mío tiene una cama enorme, el cuadro de un Buda sonriente; un cuarto de baño pequeñito en el que no falta detalle y, todavía fresca, la rosa que me recibía ayer sobre la almohada.
Estos son los pequeños placeres de L’Amant. Los que hacen diferente este crucero por el río Mekong, el río legendario que nace en China y desemboca en Vietnam, después de atravesar Myanmar, Laos y Camboya.
Nuestro viaje comenzaba ayer muy cerquita de la frontera con Camboya, porque Phnom Phen, su capital, y la ciudad vietnamita de Ho Chi Minh City, la antigua Saigón, están sólo a 185 kilómetros. Así que cogimos una lancha rápida en Phnom Phen camino de Chau Doc, donde nos esperaba L’Amant para comenzar travesía.
En poco más de cuatro horas y media río abajo estábamos ya en una frontera fluvial muy curiosa en la que hay que desembarcar para hacer los trámites de salida del país, y volver a tierra unos metros más allá para pagar el visado de entrada a Vietnam, unos 50 dólares.
Nos ha costado un poco más de lo debido, porque el policía se negaba a estampar el visado en la última página del pasaporte de Ricardo, la única que quedaba libre al documento. Al final, una ‘propinilla’ ha servido de acicate. Mientras, la espera se nos ha hecho amena porque el puesto fronterizo de Vietnam está preparado para cualquier retraso.
Bajo la bandera roja que señala la aduana, nuestra primera imagen de Vietnam será ya para siempre un bar pequeñito, con películas, latas de bebida y una terracita sobre el río en la que se puede fumar… La verdad es que tanto aquí en el sur de Vietnam como en Camboya se puede fumar en casi todos los bares, restaurantes, la temperatura es fantástica todo el año y muchos de ellos son espacios abiertos.
De toda la península de Indochina, Vietnam es el estado con más kilómetros de costa, más de tres mil. Se trata de un país con curiosa forma de ‘S’, tan largo y extenso que el clima, la cultura y la gente son muy diferentes del norte al sur.
En esta zona meridional, regada por el río Mekong, se concentra la mayor parte de la actividad productiva y de la economía del país. No sólo el comercio y la exportación son aquí importantes, también la producción de arroz. En el Delta se cultiva el 60% del total que se vende fuera del país.
      

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